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Wallpaper Removal in Fort Lauderdale and Nearby Cities

The short answer

Remove old wallpaper whenever it is peeling, stained, dated, or about to be covered by new paper or paint. We test how the paper is bonded, separate the face layer, soften the backing and adhesive, scrape gently, wash off residue, and seal any damaged drywall. The wall is then primed so it can take paint or a new wallcovering cleanly.

Taking wallpaper down sounds like a weekend chore until the first strip tears into postage-stamp pieces and the brown paper of the drywall comes off with it. Old papers in South Florida homes have often been through decades of humidity, may have been hung without primer, and are sometimes painted over or layered two or three deep. PrimeWall Interior Solutions removes wallpaper in houses and condos throughout Fort Lauderdale and surrounding Broward cities, then leaves the walls ready for paint or new wallcovering. Read on for when removal makes sense, how we protect the room and the wall, the stripping process we follow, the factors that shape the effort, and how we hand back a wall that is ready for its next finish, including a new paper if you want one.

When stripping is the right call

Removal is the smart choice before new wallpaper goes up. Hanging over an old layer seems like a shortcut, but the moisture in fresh paste can loosen the paper underneath, and the old seams eventually telegraph through. Painting over wallpaper has the same problem: seams show, edges peel, and the next removal becomes much harder.

It is also worth doing when paper is already failing. Lifting seams in a bathroom, brown stains near an AC vent, mildew spots on an exterior wall, or curled corners in a kitchen are all signs that something behind the paper needs attention. Taking the covering down lets us see the drywall and fix what caused the problem.

  • Before installing new wallpaper or a mural
  • Before painting a previously papered room
  • When seams lift, edges curl or stains appear
  • When you suspect mildew or moisture behind the paper
  • When updating a home for sale

Protecting the room before we start

Removal is wet, sticky work. We move furniture to the center of the room or out, lay plastic and absorbent drop cloths along the baseboards, and tape plastic over outlets and switches after turning off power to the room at the breaker where needed. Floors, especially wood and laminate, get extra protection because softened paste and water drip down the wall.

Next, we test a small section to learn what we are dealing with. Some papers are strippable and pull off dry in full sheets. Others are peelable, meaning the face layer comes away and leaves a paper backing on the wall. Traditional papers and those hung directly on unprimed drywall must be soaked and scraped. Painted-over paper and multiple layers each need their own approach. A quick test saves hours of the wrong technique.

Our removal process

We start by separating the face. Strippable papers peel off at a low angle. For vinyl-faced papers, we lift the top layer to expose the porous backing. For papers that resist, or that have been painted, we lightly score the surface with a perforating tool so moisture can reach the adhesive, using a gentle hand to avoid cutting into the drywall.

Then we soften the backing and paste. Depending on the paper, we use warm water with a removal solution applied by sprayer or sponge, or a wallpaper steamer for stubborn layers. The solution needs a few minutes to work, and we wet only as much wall as we can scrape before it dries.

Scraping is done with a wide, flexible blade held at a shallow angle. The goal is to lift the paper without gouging the drywall facing. In older homes with plaster walls, the surface is more forgiving of moisture; drywall needs more restraint, since soaking it too long can soften the facing.

Once the paper is gone, adhesive residue remains. We wash the walls with warm water and a residue remover until the surface no longer feels slippery or tacky, then rinse. Leftover paste causes paint to crack and new primers to fail, so this step gets real attention.

  • Test the paper type and bond
  • Peel or score the face layer
  • Soften backing with solution or steam
  • Scrape at a low angle without gouging
  • Wash off all adhesive residue and let dry

What makes a removal job harder or easier

The paper type is the first factor. A strippable non-woven can come off in a fraction of the time of an old vinyl hung on raw drywall. Paint over wallpaper, multiple layers, and borders glued with strong adhesive all add effort. The condition of the wall underneath matters next: if the drywall was never primed, the facing often tears, and those areas need sealing and skim coating before anything new goes on.

Room size and ceiling height determine how much surface there is to soak and scrape, and tall stairwells or foyers need ladders or scaffolding. Bathrooms and kitchens take longer per square foot because of cabinets, mirrors, fixtures and tight corners. Heavy pattern repeats do not affect removal, but they matter for the new paper, which is why we measure for the next installation while we are there.

From bare wall to ready for the next finish

After washing, the wall needs to dry fully, which takes longer in the humid summer months even with the AC running. We then inspect under raking light. Torn drywall paper is sealed with a penetrating sealer so it does not bubble, then skim coated and sanded smooth. Holes and cracks revealed by the removal are repaired.

Finally, the wall gets a primer chosen for what comes next: a paint primer if you are painting, or a wallcovering primer if new paper is going up. If we are installing the new paper too, the work continues straight into measuring, layout, pattern matching, seaming and trimming. To keep the new finish healthy, run exhaust fans in wet rooms, keep indoor humidity steady through hurricane season and summer, and deal with any leak signs promptly.

Wallpaper Removal by city

What to expect

How a visit goes

  1. Honest prep advice

    If a wall needs skim coating, crack repair or a moisture check first, we tell you before the job starts, not halfway through it.

  2. Pattern planned on purpose

    We decide where the first strip lands so the motif centers on a focal point and the least visible seam ends up in a corner.

  3. Climate-aware materials

    We help you pick papers and adhesives suited to humid bathrooms, salty coastal air and rooms where the AC cycles all day.

FAQ

Common questions

Don’t see your question? Call (561) 823-3201 and we’ll talk it through.

Can I just paint over old wallpaper?

It is possible but rarely lasts. Seams show through, edges peel and moisture from the paint can loosen the paper. Removing it first gives a cleaner, longer-lasting result.

Will removal damage my drywall?

Some damage is common when paper was hung on unprimed drywall. We work carefully to limit it, then seal and skim any torn areas so the wall is smooth again.

Do you use steam or chemicals?

Both, depending on the paper. Many jobs only need warm water with a removal solution; stubborn or layered paper may need a steamer.

How do I know if my wallpaper is strippable?

Lift a corner and pull slowly at a low angle. If it comes away in a full sheet with little residue, it is likely strippable. We test before starting.

What if there is mold behind the paper?

We stop and show you. Small surface spots can be cleaned and sealed, but larger growth or wet drywall points to a moisture problem that needs to be fixed first.

Can you install new wallpaper right after removal?

Yes, once the wall is dry, repaired and primed. Drying time depends on humidity and the amount of repair needed.

Tell us about the room you want to change

Send a few photos and the rough size of the walls, and we will talk through prep, paper options and timing for your home.

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